
About an hour and a half from Orlando is Crystal River; a town that is home to Kings Bay – a spring fed river system that has also been designated a National Wildlife Refuge specifically to protect the manatees that seek its warmer waters in the winter. Florida has over 900 springs and they generally stay at a constant 72 degrees year-round. The manatees get too cold in the Gulf of Mexico when the waters there go below 68 degrees and they come further inland to survive the winter temperatures. They do this over much of Florida, but Crystal River hosts the most West Indian Manatees in the world.
Capitalizing on this migration of the manatees to places further inland, there are a variety of dive shops that will hire out a boat for a fairly reasonable rate (around 50 bucks per person) and the captain will take you to an area in the bay where the manatees congregate. Our captain supplied us with snorkeling gear, wet suits, and hot chocolate for after the swim. It was so peaceful and beautiful, and it was just us and one other boat in the area. My 8-year-old daughter and I shimmied into our wetsuits and stepped down the ladder off the boat into the water. Those of you who have been in a wetsuit before would know that the suit keeps you warm by trapping a layer of water between it and your skin, and it’s your own body temperature that heats up the water inside the suit in order to keep you warm. I had not been in a wetsuit before and did not know this, but as I entered the water, I suddenly understood why there was hot chocolate offered at the end of the swim. 72-degree water is pretty chilly.
Once accustomed to the water, my daughter and I got our snorkels on and headed over to the rope line that marks the area where only manatees may enter. There were more manatees than I could count on the protected side of the rope line. Occasionally a manatee would leave the protected area and swim right underneath us, and in the clear water, the view was outstanding. One particularly big manatee went past us on its way to the nearby Three Sisters Spring, and we were so close we could see the algae flow on its back as it swam. On others we could see the propeller scars from accidents with boats that were going too fast for the poor lumbering creatures to dodge. By “we” could see, I mean really that “I” could see. The 8-year-old was not much into putting her face into the water. Probably a good thing to note BEFORE you pay for a snorkeling experience.
We followed one manatee to Three Sisters, which was surrounded by rock outcroppings and we swam around to look at the fish swimming all around. It was at this point that I became completely and utterly distracted by the need to pee. That kind of unrelenting, all-consuming urge to pee that prevents you from noticing you’re swimming above a manatee in a purely clear, white-sand bottomed spring. My daughter was and remains disgusted with me, but I peed right there in spring. I took care of the situation the only way I could, really, and quickly came to the realization that when you pee in a wetsuit, your pee stays IN the wetsuit. So now I was swimming around trapped in my own urine. Warmer, yes, but is pee-induced warmth really that gratifying? I say no.

We made our way back to the boat, swimming through the narrow inlet that lead back and forth from Three Sisters and watching as manatees occasionally passed under us to head back and forth as well. Sadly, when we got back to our boat, we discovered that many more boats had arrived while we were by the spring, and an entire human chain was hovering around the rope line waiting for manatees to leave. Things like this, as well as people harassing the manatees, trying to touch and hitch a ride on them, and the general increase of human activity around the manatee’s safe zone are all issues that have created the controversy that surround the swim-with-a-manatee business.
Based on this information, which I did not know before I went myself, I would not go again, nor recommend it to others. But I can definitely advise you to find a bathroom before getting into a wet suit.











